Stefan’s Story: Navigating Change in Iceland’s Whale-Watching Capital
An interview with: Stefán Guðmundsson, CEO & Owner of Gentle Giants & Sea Captain
August 2025

Country & Region:
Húsavík, Iceland
Breakthrough:
Coastal Tourism, Marine Conservation

Beneficiaries / Impact: The whale-watching industry in Húsavík is a cornerstone of Iceland’s tourism economy, creating jobs, fostering sustainable business practices, and directly benefiting local communities. It proves the economic and ecological value of living whales, and is further helping to shift global perceptions toward conservation. Despite Iceland’s deep-rooted history in whaling, in recent years the industry has been eclipsed by the booming tourism sector. In 2017, tourism accounted for 42% of Iceland’s exports, its highest ever, according to the Iceland Chamber of Commerce. While the single and only company in whaling caught 146 animals during Iceland’s last whaling season in 2018, the practice has since halted for four consecutive years. Bloomberg reports that Iceland now hosts six times more tourists than its total population, demonstrating a growing demand for nature-focused experiences—what Iceland is best known for. For small towns like Húsavík, whale watching has become a glowing indicator that whales are far more valuable alive than dead. Operators on the frontlines are paving the way for a future where ecological preservation and economic growth go hand in hand, even though as of this year, whaling has been set to resume for an impending five year period. 



I started going out with my father and grandfather on fishing trips at just five years old, continuing a family legacy that spans five generations in Húsavík and Flatey on Skjálfandi Bay. My ancestors lived and fished here, relying on row boats in the early days before transitioning to motorboats. Fishing has always been central to my family’s identity, focusing primarily on cod and haddock, and during the 1990s, shrimp became a significant part of our work when the bay came alive with them. A factory in Húsavík processed the shrimp we caught, but the population dwindled by 2000, and we’re still waiting for its return. This bay has always been a melting pot for marine life, from the smallest shrimp to the largest whales, whose numbers have steadily increased over the years.

I graduated elementary school (Iceland’s version of grade school) in Húsavík, attended one year of college there, and spent a year as an exchange student in the United States. I later studied at the Navigation College in the Westman Islands for two years, earning a Master of Fishing Vessels, followed by another year at the Navigational College in Reykjavík, where I qualified as a Chief Mate of Coast Guard Vessels and a Master of Merchant and Passenger Vessels. I was then able to graduate from the Technical College in Reykjavík after three years, specializing in industrial management within the fisheries sector.

My life has been spent captaining fishing vessels along Iceland’s coast, while actively participating in my family’s fishing business, serving as a captain and guide on passenger vessels on Skjálfandi Bay since 1982. In 2004, I became the owner and CEO of a conscious tourism company called Gentle Giants, leading the charge in transforming the bay into a hub for whale watching.

One of Stefán’s original boats that he has kept restored. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug
One of Stefán’s original boats that he has kept restored. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug

While my peers worked on farms going up, I spent my summers on the ocean. This taught me to respect and live in harmony with nature. Flatey Island holds a special place in my childhood memories, as it was integral to my family’s survival. There, families relied on the land and sea—harvesting eggs from nesting birds and making the most of what the ocean provided. These experiences not only shaped my understanding of the sea but also instilled a sense of responsibility to protect this very bay as my life’s work. 

Over the past two decades, we’ve witnessed remarkable changes here in marine life. Larger whales, such as humpbacks and blue whales, have become more common in the bay, joining the smaller species that have been here for over a century. Weather patterns have shifted as well, though not drastically. We’ve always seen cycles—hot summers and cold spells, even sea ice drifting into the bay every few decades. However, the increasing rainfall and warming waters in recent years seem tied to global climate change. For instance, colder waters decades ago likely supported the bay’s once-thriving shrimp population, which prefers such conditions. Whether these patterns will reverse or continue to evolve remains uncertain, though some scientists, including a respected Icelandic meteorologist, predicted a cooling period might return.

Whale activity in the bay has mirrored these environmental changes. When I fished here 30 years ago, humpbacks were a rare sight. Today, they are a regular presence, and alongside blue whales, their numbers are increasing steadily as waters have warmed. Still, the future remains uncertain. Will the warming trend continue? Or will Iceland’s climate enter another cooling phase as predicted?

The center of Húsavík in the far north of Iceland. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug
The center of Húsavík in the far north of Iceland. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug

Iceland has a complex history with whaling, and while I firmly support whale watching today, it’s important to understand the full context of Iceland’s past. For my ancestors, hunting whales was a matter of survival. My great-grandfather, living in a turf house with 16 children, relied on whatever nature provided. Back then, it wasn’t a choice—it was life or death. Today, we no longer need to hunt whales for food, and perspectives have shifted significantly, particularly with younger generations who see whales as creatures to be protected, not exploited.

Twenty years ago, as a board member of the Icelandic Whale Watching Association (Ice Whale)—representing whale-watching companies—I proposed creating large protected areas around Iceland to safeguard whales. Unfortunately, my idea was voted down in favor of pushing for an outright ban on whaling, which I argued was a political issue beyond our control. When whaling quotas increased a few years later, I reminded my colleagues that sanctuaries could have made a significant impact—a practical and achievable step toward protecting these incredible animals.

Today, only one company remains in the whaling business, as Iceland’s mindset has shifted considerably. While I believe whaling will eventually stop altogether, transitions like this require time. Looking back, I wish we had acted sooner to establish the sanctuaries I proposed. They could have helped protect whales not only as a critical part of our ecosystem but also for future generations. As Iceland moves closer to leaving whaling behind, it’s clear the mentality of younger generations is driving this change, reflecting a broader commitment to preserving these extraordinary creatures.

Scenes from Flatey Island where Stefán grew up. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug
Scenes from Flatey Island where Stefán grew up. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug

Whale watching has become a major driver of tourism in Iceland. For my family, preserving and protecting this bay has been our way of life for 160 years. We’ve always understood the importance of sustainable practices, and even though changes are necessary, the local community here in Húsavík is ready to adapt. The bay is healthy, and keeping it that way is in everyone’s best interest.

Fishing in Húsavík has decreased significantly over the decades. Fifty years ago, there were five times as many fishing vessels in the bay as there are today. In contrast, whale-watching boats have increased over the past 20 or 30 years, operating from morning to afternoon for most of the year. We’ve learned to run these trips much better than we did in the early days. Communication and cooperation among the whale-watching companies have grown tremendously, and while competition remains on land, we all share the same goal when on the water: delivering a great experience and protecting the environment at the same time. 

To ensure sustainable operations, we’ve established a strict code of conduct for our captains. These are not just guidelines; they’re essential for protecting the whales, the bay, and our businesses. Adhering to this code helps us avoid government-imposed regulations, which is why we take responsibility for setting our own rules. Over the years, the system has worked well, and things have improved significantly compared to 15 or 20 years ago when awareness and coordination were much less established. And it puts pressure on whaling activity, as we prove these animals are more valuable alive. 

Whale watching with Gentle Giants. Photo Credit: Adam Moore
Whale watching with Gentle Giants. Photo Credit: Adam Moore

Ice Whale plays a key role in this effort. With nearly 20 member companies, we operate as an umbrella organization, working collaboratively to oversee the industry across Iceland. While each company manages its own operations—some offering additional activities like sea angling or island tours—we all benefit from Ice Whale’s leadership. When broader political issues arise, we collaborate with SAF, the Icelandic Travel Association, which serves as a bridge between us and the government. Together, we’re shaping a future where whale watching thrives while respecting and preserving the natural world we depend on.

For me, the goal has always been to ensure that we’re moving forward together as a united community. Whether it’s just two of us working, or a full team of 52 as we had before COVID, the priority is the same: continuous improvement and collaboration. Every year, we aim to grow stronger, take meaningful steps, and innovate in how we operate. This includes adopting greener energy solutions, enhancing safety, and improving our impact on both the environment and the people who visit this incredible place.

Looking ahead, I want to see our work go beyond tourism and become a beacon for sustainability practices worldwide. We’ve already witnessed incredible changes over the past 25 years—economic crises, volcanic eruptions, a pandemic, and unpredictable weather patterns. Yet, through it all, we’ve adapted, learned, and found ways to move forward. The development of green energy here in Iceland is something I watch with immense hope. It’s a reflection of how we can harness nature responsibly while preserving it for future generations.

Whales in the bay. Photo Credit: Adam Moore
Whales in the bay. Photo Credit: Adam Moore

The bay, the whales, the land—these aren’t just resources; they’re integral to who we are as Icelandic people. My hope is for a world where this perspective is shared universally—where we all value protecting what sustains us and recognize the expertise of locals who have lived on these waters for generations. True progress requires collaboration, with outside support from researchers, NGOs, and institutions working respectfully alongside us. For Húsavík, for Iceland, and for the planet, my message is simple: let’s find ways to live in harmony with our natural world and work together to understand each other’s survival priorities. 

We’ve faced many challenges, but those obstacles only strengthen my resolve. The natural world is resilient, and so are we. With thoughtful action and a shared commitment to doing better, I believe we can ensure that the beauty of places like this endures—not only for us but for generations to come, just as my ancestors cherished it, as I do now, and as the future will too.

The lighthouse on Flatey Island where Stefán grew up. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug

ABOUT THE OCEAN BREAKTHROUGHS

Resulting from the joint efforts of the Ocean & Coastal Zones community and building on the Ocean for Climate Declaration, the Ocean Breakthroughs have identified five turning points to reach by 2030 to achieve a healthy and productive ocean in 2050. These five turning points are focused on the most crucial ocean sectors: marine conservation, ocean renewable energy, shipping, aquatic food, and coastal tourism. Accelerated action and investments in each will help unlock the potential of the ocean as a source of solutions to the pressing challenges posed by climate change and biodiversity loss.

The scientific evidence is clear: as a major climate regulator and the largest living space on Earth, the ocean is integral to delivering the goals of the Paris Agreement and the Global Biodiversity Framework. The Ocean Breakthroughs are science-based targets designed to boost mitigation and adaptation efforts, for the benefit of People and Nature. They will contribute to delivering on the global campaigns led by the Climate High-Level Champions, namely the Race to Resilience and Race to Zero, and their respective action agendas: the Sharm-El-Sheikh Adaptation Agenda and the 2030 Breakthroughs.

ABOUT THE HLC X EDGES OF EARTH EXPEDITION

The women-led global expedition, Edges of Earth, has partnered with the UN Climate Change High-Level Champions (HLC) to bring to life the Ocean Breakthroughs initiative by sharing personal accounts and climate action stories from remote coastal communities. This media partnership will feature interview-style stories that highlight the experiences and efforts of locals, Indigenous communities, nonprofits, and ocean scientists in addressing climate change. Celebrating its one-year anniversary, Edges of Earth has traveled to 25 countries (with nearly 30+ more to go throughout 2025) working closely with diverse groups to understand and amplify their climate resilience strategies. Through this collaboration, Edges of Earth will spotlight the five Ocean Breakthroughs by showcasing diverse voices and solutions to accelerate global climate action.